Trip News
ideas, squibs, photos to:
henryjh@comcast.net
Upcoming REUNION Trip for all interested TEAA-ers will take place in the summer of 2011. This is the 50th anniversary of the TEA-TEEA project. There will be a New York component at Teachers College, Columbia University, the institution that founded the program and trained us. Then many of us will be off to East Africa where we all taught in those heady days just before and after independence of Tanzania/Tanganyika, Kenya and Uganda.

Please write to Brooks Goddard at goddard@rcn.com to let him know if you will Definitely, Probably or Possibly come to either or both of these great events now being planned. Brooks will be delighted to answer all questions. To see who is already committed to coming or is contemplating it, click on WHO?.
 
Most recent trip:
Bill and Henry, Feb-Mar, 2010
February 22, 2010: Bill Jones and Henry Hamburger depart for school visits in Kenya and Tanzania, complementing the Uganda journey of May 2009 by Betty Castor and Sam Bell.

We visited 15 educational institutions of various types. more
March 1, 2010: First report from Henry and Bill

Assembly at the Moonlight primary school operated by Eunice Nandokha and her husband Enoch who is our area rep for northwestern Kenya.
Library storeroom at Butonge secondary school, recipient of a raft of textbooks in 2009 and various TEAA grants in preceding years

March 3, 2010: 3 School Visits

On Monday and Tuesday (March 1-2), we visited three schools in the vicinity of Bungoma Kenya. Our goal at Butonge was to reestablish old ties that had been interrupted by an uprising. Our first interactions with the new principal were satisfactory and we were highly impressed with the new chair of the school's board of governors. The digital library sent a few years ago is in operation and is used by faculty, we were told.

The TEAA library project is well appreciated, as the sign in the photo above suggests. They have been doing quite well on national exams. The results for 2009 are due out today and will be posted online. Just now in town we ran into a faculty member who is accompanying students back to school from downtown Bungoma by the school's bus as the midterm break ends.

Today's first visit was at Nalondo, where we met with the principal and Livingstone Sibona, a teacher of biology and chemistry whom we first encountered at Wamalwa Kijana our second school of the day, where his innovative nature made a big impression on Ed and me a few years ago. He's still at it, sponsoring a competition at his new school in using junk for pracitical purposes in the economy. Winners will move up to the next level of the competition and ultimately there will be a national faceoff.

WK is going strong and has grown by a factor of 10 in size since I first visitied alone in 2004 when they had just 40 students, all form 1s.

The hospitality has been terrific all along the line, notably with Bill's friends in Nairobi and Kapkitony and with the Nandokha family in Bungoma. Tomorrow we're off to Lunza. Our hosts there and here have been in touch so we have high hopes for a continuation of the effortlessly successful travel connections we've been enjoying so far.
March 9, 2010: Western Kenya

Bill waiting for appropriate response from assembled students at Butonge (near Bungoma, Kenya)


Student at Lunza (near Butere, Kenya) with one of five microscopes financed by TEAA. They use them with skill and know what they're looking at and why.



Lunchtime at Lunza, a standup affair


New girls' dorm at Mukuyu (near Migori, Kenya)


Kenya flag unfurls in the breeze in front of Mukuyu's main building.


Kudu in Maasai Mara questions the purpose of our intrusion onto his land.


Crested Crane, the national bird of Uganda, is here found in Kenya's Maasai Mara.
March 12, 2010: Tanzania


Excellent form 5 chemistry class at Moringe Sokoine (in Monduli, Tanzania) began with a highly interactive presentation of theory (redox iodometry for you chem fundis) followed by distribution of the chemicals as shown here.

Sister Lucy Mbuya, the deputy head of Weruweru High School, chats with Bill about language pedagogy. This is a government school and Sister Mbuya is in the capacity of an ordinary citizen. She has been a principal and recently returned from several years of further education in the USA.

Later we see the teacher, Joseph Mwanisawa (at left), head of the chemistry department at Moringe Sokoine and a gifted communicator, coaching groups of students, as needed, first with procedures and later with computations.

This physics class at Ngarenaro was an intriguing mixture of demo and small group lab work. After the teacher set up a single set of equipment, student groups took turns tracing the angles of the forces so they could complete the experiment at their desks.


We tracked down contemporary art in museums, galleries and studios. This guy is in front of the Zambia National Museum.


We walked everywhere in Lusaka, Zambia, but the first "R" in "R&R" is for "rest." Here's our bungalow.


 Report  - Notes on 15 educational institutions we visited
Ann Dickinson, Jan 2010


During a trip to Kenya, while Paul Dickinson carried out medical activities, Ann Dickinson visited an unusual school, the Kibera Girls Soccer Academy, located in the infamous Kibera neighborhood of Nairobi. Here's Ann with Ryan Sarafolean who, she writes, is "their development director from St. Paul, MN, whose jobs include painting walls, improving their website and holding fundraisers when he's in town." The KGSA website notes that "by combining traditional academic studies with an artistic and physical component, we are not only challenging our students' minds, but are encouraging the exploration of their own creativity while inspiring confidence in their own bodies. Ultimately, it is our hope that we can empower the young women of KGSA to become leaders within their own communities advocating for a gender equal society." This would be a remarkable achievement in "the largest slum in Africa ... home to over one million people [in an area] roughly the size of New York City's Central Park."
Betty and Sam, May 2009

Betty Castor and Sam Bell are back from Uganda! They visited many schools and liked most of what they saw. Photos are at MacKay College, Nateete on the outskirts of Kampala and at St. Bernard's, Kiswera, 80 miles to the southwest. Keep scrolling down for commentary posted during the trip; click for Final Report.
Upper left: Betty, Head Teacher Gertrude Ssekabira, the parents' board chair and Deputy Head Anne Karemira. Upper right: Computer teacher Kigula Martin, Sam and Gertrude. Sam funded and was single-handedly responsible for the first and probably the best computer shipment involving TEAA: 30 computers shared by MacKay and Nkumba University.

Lower left: New classroom building dedicated to Arlone Child, who raised and contributed funding over a 5-year period for her scholarship project at MacKay, which provided half the school fees every term for 34 top students in need. Lower right: closeup of the dedication plaque.




Upper left: Leadership team at St. Bernard's, Kiswera

Upper right: Betty with leaders of New Kabale
Lower left: Sam and Olive Kakinda at St. Bernard's, Kiswera. The ping pong table, which doubles as a study table, was constructed locally with TEAA funding. Lower right: Leaders of Budadiri with Betty. This is a community school on the slopes of Mt. Elgon.
May 30. Click for Final Report.


May 20. Report during trip.

Betty and Sam have visited several Uganda schools, in particular MacKay where they "had a very good visit with Gertrude... The school looks good and a new building has been dedicated to Arlone Child, new plaque and all. The New Kabale School turned out to be a great effort by a group of teachers trying to reach very poor students. The HM is a young (to me), enthusiastic instructor who works at Makerere." These two schools are close to Kampala. They also visited schools in eastern Uganda.

Prior to departure.

Preparations are moving swiftly. Betty spoke this morning with Ida Tarinyeba, head of Tororo Girls High. "She will meet with me and Sam on the 19th or 20th of May at the school. [They're also in contact with] Emmanuel Ofumbi (Emma), an outstanding leader of a nearby village, Papoli, where my daughter's (the Congresswoman) church has built wells, a clinic and an elementary school. In fact, we're going to stop there as well. Emma has many associations with Tororo Girls Secondary School so it should be a productive meeting." Betty and Sam plan to stop at other schools in Uganda missed in the preceding trip.
Ed and Henry, Feb-Mar 2009




The recent trip by TEAA-ers Ed Schmidt and Henry Hamburger - shown above with their hosts TEAA representative Peter Indalo and wife Arita - featured 17 visits to secondary schools, eleven of them new, all well recommended, some in each of the three countries. Some of the new ones will be selected for expansion of our programs. At schools already being assisted we renew old friendships, maintain relationships with the schools, observe classes, some of them featuring TEAA equipment in action in the classroom, and discuss forms of future assistance. On this trip we also visited a foundation with goals like ours, a trade school and a teacher training college.

Somehow Ed's best photos came from just three schools, one in each country. Since a picture is worth a lot of words, the photos come first, in the form of three collages. If you're a words-oriented person, you may want to click here to skip down to the text of Henry's trip diary, originally posted in the course of the trip, but now expanded and edited to connect with the photos. You'll get to it anyway by scrolling through the photos.


Going to Gunga, scene of the four photos above, is always a challenge, with its two hours-worth of rough road in each direction, supplemented by speed bumps and wandering cows, just when you start to work up a little speed. But headmaster Okunya is a star communicator who provides both poetry and leadership, so it's worth the trek to keep in touch. Anyway, the hard part is being the driver, a job handled with skill by our host and representative Peter Indalo, who found the additional energy to make an eloquent and moving plea (upper left photo) to the boys to guard their sisters against traditional exploitation, to give them genuinely equal opportunity, something not yet automatic here.


For over twenty years, the people of northern Uganda endured turbulence, bloodshed, kidnapping, rape and murder at the hands of the pathological self-styled Lord's Resistance Army. Iceme Girls School, 30 miles down a rough road from Lira, was shut down for 2002-06 because of being in a government-LRA war-zone. It is functioning now in its normal location, trying to be normal in other ways and succeeding in part because of the strength and perceptiveness of the principal, Sister Clare (inset photo), whose determination to shape strong young women played out for us in the confident enjoyment of the singers and reciters captured in the above photos.




Blackboard (top photo above) shows a puzzle/story presented at the start of class and a student explaining at the end. In the meantime, groups were at work figuring out and doing the necessary procedures (bottom photo). They got reasonable but divergent answers and were then challenged to think of what aspects of their technique might have introduced a bit too much error. This class took place at Moringe Sokoine in Monduli, Tanzania, 90 minutes on excellent road in a daladala that lines up on a back street in Arusha, just half a mile from where we stay.
back to the top

Trip Diary
Uganda
February 10, 2009 , Lira

Meeting People

Natete Backpackers in Kampala is a low-key place with a remarkably natural environment despite its convenient location on the outskirts of Kampala and is also good for meeting people. So was the home of TEAA-er Fawn Cousens. For Sunday lunch, she hosted us with 6 Ugandans along with expats from 3 continents: herself from the USA, husband John - an ex-New Zealander who as always was a prince about helping us out - and UK TEAA-er Kate Parry.

Saturday we met with a teacher from an Aga Khan school who is also the key co-founder of another school that he showed us, a short matatu-ride outside Kampala. Both he and the school had been recommended by another schools-assistance organization with a somewhat different agenda from TEAA's, but we found common ground on the subject of recreational reading and hope to act on that soon.

Here in Lira, halfway from Kampala to the border with Sudan, we have seen some aftermath of war, physical and psychological, but also some admirable determination to deal with it, especially by two outstanding individuals. One, Quilinous Otim, a community force who knows everyone, was our host and tireless driver. The other, the redoubtable Sister Clair, is the headmistress of Iceme Girls SS, where she is building strong women. Her school is featured in one of the clusters of photos; scroll up to see them.



Kenya
February 16, 2009 , Kimilili

Communication

We are sitting in a Cybercafe operated by a community service organization in Kimilili. We arrived via a two-stage matatu ride heading north from Bungoma where we are the house-guests of TEAA representative, Enoch Nandokha. He is now working for these folks, assisting with community outreach and health programs. Like us, they have an interest in secondary schools, in their case seeking worthy scholarship recipients and generous donors.

Our visit up here follows a refreshing 2-day R&R stop in eastern Uganda on the slopes of Mt Elgon, from which we made it to Bungoma in 5 vehicles, including, of all things, the car(!) of a Ugandan family leaving the camp at the same time; also of course, the ever-available bodaboda ride - on the bike that crosses the border (boda).

We have visited two schools in the Bungoma area. Communication had lapsed with each of them, partly as a result of changes in leadership. Each party involved has vowed to improve on that score, many email addresses and phone numbers have been exchanged, and the librarian at Butonge - who oversaw one of our most successful projects - is now getting a stronger role in the relationship with us. We are guardedly optimistic.

February 24, 2009, Migori

Transportation

We've covered a lot of ground since the last installment near Bungoma and have run into a couple of transportation glitches that are amusing in retrospect. First came visits to three schools and a teacher training college in the area near Obama's ancestral home northwest of Kisumu. This area has the distinction of not being connected up even by matatus. We were told of a reachable midpoint, went there and found a couple of bodaboda guys who were happy to take us to a place called Ruambwa. Unfortunately, this turned out to be "the wrong Ruambwa" - not a district headquarters but a forsaken soda stand.

Then in the southwest, near Migori and the Tanzania border, TEAA representative Peter Indalo drove us on the always-challenging 4-hour side-trip to Gunga, one of our favorite schools. The way leads down a rocky road that, on the way back, drove a gash in one of our tires. That little episode, complete with rag plugs in the spare, is being submitted to Newsletter #21, due out in July; don't miss it. Great hospitality as always from Peter and his wife Arita. Then via Nairobi to Arusha, Tanzania, where I now sit, across the street from our digs for the next few days in a couple of cubbyholes in the Backpackers Hotel.
Tanzania
February 27, 2009, Arusha

Critical Thinking

The pleasure of seeing old friends continues, as does unending discovery (last night the 'bread district' of Arusha; who knew?), as well as the rejuvenating challenge of contorting into overpopulated vehicles. Still, in the end, it is the school visits that we are here for, so I am pleased to report a truly excellent chemistry lab session today in the fifth form at Moringe Sokoine Secondary in Monduli.

Working in groups of 4 and 5, the students first performed the procedures required for the puzzle presented in story form, obtaining reasonable but divergent answers. They were then challenged to think of what aspects of their technique might have introduced a bit too much error. Finally these possible flaws were compared in terms of how much error they might actually introduce. This kind of critical thinking applies beyond the chem lab!

March 2, 2009, Moshi

Surprises

Moshi - 50 miles down the road from Arusha - has exceeded expectations. We had left home with recommendations of three schools new to us there but with no contact information. Fortunately we managed indirect contact en route and today were anticipated and welcomed at each of them.

Next, while in Arusha we learned about the Kilimanjaro Marathon and yesterday went out to have a look. Ed saw the winning woman near the beginning, already ahead of all the wazungu of both sexes, and we both saw her finish in the stadium, where in addition to exhausted runners there were thousands of watchers, scores of banners, handfuls of barbecue stands and numerous shopping opportunities for running enthusiasts.

Also unanticipated were Moshi's high-quality eating opportunities: the Deli Chez for Indian food, the Taj Mahal for delectable "Zanzibar pizza" on the sidewalk, and our very own Kindoroko Hotel for an excellent environment in which to consume a half-litre of East Africa's finest brews.

We have now visited 19 educational institutions, and tomorrow, with an early morning departure for Dar es Salaam, will be our 11th day with at least 4 hours of transportation, at least 4 vehicles, or both. More to the point, we have found some schools that we will be strongly recommending for assistance.






Bill and Henry, April 2008
A dozen TEAA school visits took place during 3 weeks in April of 2008. Bill Jones (right) and Henry Hamburger report their wanderings and findings in Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania and Mozambique.

This page gives highlights with photos. Click "School Visits and Funding Choices" for a summary of the schools and the types of academic equipment that we have provided and are considering for the future. The Steering Committee encourages TEAA-ers to read this document and respond.

Fear not death but a life without hope, purpose and knowledge.
- sign at Ngarenaro.
Click on a country or just scroll down.
Uganda

Monday April 7, 2008, Kampala
Hello, interested people. We are at MacKay, which is now online! I am in the back room while Bill is watching computer stuff being well taught. He has had a conversation about instilling a culture of reading with deputy head Anne Karemire, who is as dynamic as ever. The computers we sent need work, and I have promised that TEAA will foot that bill and replace the ancient printer. Photo at left shows a physics lab session in which students check out the regularities of pendulum behavior.

We are staying with Fawn and John Cousens. John graciously drove us here this morning. I have received some responses to my questions about directions for some later stops. Photo ops have occurred. I must go now as we are already late for lunch. Kwaherini and happy trails. -Henry and Bill.

Thursday April 10, 2008, Kampala
We have seen three Uganda schools in three days, each interesting and admirable in its own way: MacKay on Monday, St Joseph's Centenary on Tuesday, both in or near Kampala, and on Wednesday St Bernards Kiswera near Masaka where we received tapes and CDs of songs sung by their choir; click the right-pointing triangle to start.

Biggest class so far: 105 students at St. Joseph's Centenary, where, given labs without gas lines, they have been clever enough to use cookers (photo) in place of Bunsen burners. Nobody has the resources they need. Private schools, which fill a crucial role, are losing good teachers to public ones which have more resources.

The good news from the TEAA viewpoint is that the computers we sent are mostly up and running. Bill is adding an interesting and important dimension to our visits with conversations about the key role of independent reading and how to promote it. Anne Karemire, the excellent deputy head at MacKay, supervised our visit and has written this followup:

"Greetings from Mackay. We are still compiling what is needed in order to have the computers in use. We are optimistic that 19 out of 20 will be usable. Martin is working hard on this. We shall give you timely feedbback. Thanks for your support."

Friday, April 11, 2008 Innovative Book Program...
at Tororo Girls' consists of a 3-year-long surcharge on fees, spent entirely on a set of crucial books, beginning with the acclaimed Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary. Bill saw an English class in which every student brought her personal copy of the ALD to class where they were used, not gathering dust in a library. These and all other books will ultimately be recycled to other students, which is why the surcharge can have a finite lifetime. That made it more acceptable to parents who are the ones footing most of the bill.

In the photo is a poster that in turn contains a photo. It's posted at Tororo Girls School and it exhorts students to have confidence in their ability to understand science and mathematics. Evidently it has not been entirely successful, as most of the A-level students here still opt for arts combinations, not those in the sciences.
Checking out some school facilities and activities, Bill examines objects (above, left) for still-life models in the art-room at St. Bernard's, Kiswera, 80 miles southwest of Kampala. The notice board (above, right) presents student news at St. Joseph's Centenary in Ndeeba, near Kampala. Urban scene (below) is the view from our perch in the Tororo Lodge. Palm trees tower over the rooftops and in the distance Tororo Rock pokes its peak into the cloud cover.
Kenya

Sunday, April 13, 2008
What has 3 wheels, carries three passengers and makes the sound "tukutuku" as it plies the streets of Bungoma? Answer, a tukutuku. Originating in India, this economical taxi is beginning to appear in Kenya. Please do not confuse the tukutuku with the pikipiki (motorcycle), which makes the higher-pitched sound, "pikipiki." I did not move fast enough to get my own photo, so here is a shiny new Bajaj Autorickshaw.
Although Bungoma is no major metropolis, it is big enough to have a suburb, Kanduyi, the home of TEAA representative Enoch Nandokha and his wife Eunice, who made us at home with wonderful hospitality, as always. Two nearby enterprises are shown in the first photo, and Swahili scholars will note that the butchery is run by Mrs. Clean.

Kanduyi is also home to Wamalwa Kijana High School, and although we came on a weekend just after the end of term, science teacher Livingston Sibona had organized a lab session in which students conducted and explained to us eight different experiments spanning the three sciences.

The gas diffusion experiment features a broken burette, recycled for conducting two gases over readily measured distances. On a more practical note, a second student manufactures soap in a series of steps. The third and final student-performed demo shown here exceeds our chemistry knowledge.


Friday, April 18, 2008
Question: What's the fastest way to meet Kenyans? Answer: travel with Bill Jones. After school visits in Bungoma in the west, we took matatus to Eldoret and on to Chapkoria, where a ride was waiting for us to the Kapkitony home of the family of Bill's former student.

At 9000 feet, the area is chilly and gorgeous, as you can see in the family portrait below showing three generations of the family of the late Stephen Bore ["Boray"], plus Bill. At the time of writing this message I had just transferred this image from camera to computer and printed ten copies for the Nairobi portion of the clan, who were delighted and will share with the folks in the photo.



Last night in Nairobi we attended a cultural event at the Goethe Institute and it turns out that Bill knows a substantial portion of the arts community. The father of the presenter, a 1959 graduate of my old school, has promised to track down my prize student.
Tanzania

Monday, April 21, 2008
Bill and I have visited eight schools and have four to go. Several appear to be exceptionally well run despite difficult circumstances. We therefore expect to be recommending a rather large number of grants within a short time of our return.

Today we met the principal of St Joseph's Ngarenaro in Arusha, Tanzania, Sister Mary Shaija, who grew up in Kerala state in the far south of India where things were relatively progressive. She then had some adapting to do when she was assigned by her order to work at a school in the north of India where very different ideas prevailed. There she got plenty of practice looking for ways to encourage girls and enlighten boys. This experience and the resulting skills inform her work here in Arusha.

Sr. Shaija has been in Tanzania for 15 years, the last 9 of them at Ngarenaro, putting her ideas into practice, but also continually experimenting, she told us, to see what works. She has a ready smile, a keen wit and effortless recall of facts about the school and its situation. She is aware of the obstacles facing her and is determined to deal with them as effectively as possible.


Friday, May 2, 2008
The following day, Tuesday, April 22, we took a daladala (matatu to you Kenya and Uganda people) to Monduli, where we disembarked and slithered up a long muddy hill, with the gracious help of a local woman, to Moringe Sokoine SS. This school had received a visit from some Dar-05-ers and at the end of the day we bumped into the ex-headmaster who had greeted them at that time (at left in photo). His 12-year understudy as deputy, Mr. Kwayu, is now acting head (second from right in photo, which also includes teachers). This was the all-time best visit for Bill, as he got to teach a long class.


On Wednesday we were up early to take the big bus for the 9 and a half hour ride to Dar es Salaam. We were grateful to have a responsible driver, since we noted several large overturned trucks that had failed to negotiate the curves as they came winding down a long, wet and sometimes muddy hill.

In Dar we saw three schools in two days. A couple of them had been visited as part of Dar-05: Jangwani, a huge all-girls school where Brenda Tillberg taught back in the day, and Tambaza, the largest all A-level school in the country. We also saw Chan'gombe, a demonstration school of the Dar U College of Education, surprisingly neglected, given its status. In fact all three of these schools seem significantly less well endowed than others outside the beating heart of the big city.

At Jangwani, below, wandering amid the gracious architecture of an earlier era, one can be easily jarred by the sudden appearance of a communication tower, sitting on a small square of schoolyard rented out to raise some shillings.
Mozambique...

buildings we liked in the capital, Maputo.